For an ‘Oh-So Beautiful’ eco-friendly summer, stay at this homestay in Himachal, India
Breathing the crisp air from my Juliet balcony, a sense of calm enveloped me as I looked over the sprawling tea plantations in the Kangra Valley in India’s most loved state Himachal Pradesh. A warm cup of tea is sure to invigorate, as you enjoy the misty mountains and cosy stay that make up the Lodge at Wah homestay — a home away from home.
One hour from the famous town of Dharamsala, that came on the world map in 1959 with the arrival of His Holiness the 14th Dalai Lama and the Tibetan Government in Exile. This homestay and tea estate in Palampur, a tiny hill station known for its tea gardens, is a warm embrace amidst the cold weather of North India.
Originally owned by the Nawab of Wah in Pakistan, the tea estate was taken over by the Chaiwala (means tea planters) family in 1953. Deepak Prakash part of the third generation of the family, being a big fan of natural living was inspired by the slate and wooden homes of the local Gaddi tribe and decided to build an eco-friendly abode for his family and guests near the tea estate. In 2017, after five years of research and labour, Deepak’s vision came to life.
Atithi Devo Bhava is a Sanskrit verse, translated literally it means “The guest is equivalent to God”. This has now become a part of the Indian culture where having guests is a huge honour. Most people travelling to India stay in hotels, but this is changing with many families now offering homestay as an option and welcoming travellers into their homes.
“A thorough research on mud cottages around the world and inputs from local artisans helped me shape the lodge” says Deepak as he sips a cup of hot tea. The Lodge at Wah, an eco-friendly homestay gives its guests an immersive tea experience. ‘Wah’ means ‘wow’ and a stay here will surely elicit that response.
The largest tea plantation in Palampur, I took a 45 min tour of the tea gardens that gave me a glimpse into the hard work that goes behind their cup of tea and the people who make it all worth it. The estate is one of the largest manufacturers of tea in the Kangra region of Himachal. What was initially a two-room cowshed has been transformed into a cutting edge tea factory. From green tea to flavoured tea like Rose, Lemongrass, Chamomile all are served with lots of love by the staff of the estate. My tour ends with a tea tasting and I buy some to savour it back home.
The homestay, just across the road from the tea estate was the star attraction of my visit as I looked upon a sprawling cottage amidst the mountains as a backdrop. Made from earthy wood and colourful tones, the aroma of the pinewood pervaded the air. “The wood also has a story behind it” expresses Deepak. “One day while I was walking down the Palampur town, the scent of pinewood grabbed my attention and I followed the scent trail. It led me to the Old Palampur Courthouse that was being demolished to be rebuilt as a concrete structure. Without a second thought, I bought the wood, which now makes up a large part of the villas.” Pine and Cedar wood has also been used in the lodge which has been taken from the Wah estate, in place of which multiple trees were planted.
I stroll around the lodge’s three cottages to see the roof, doors, windows which belonged to the original courthouse. The river stone and slate is hand chiseled and crafted to give it the feel of the local Kangra architecture. The bricks used in the cottages are from the mud that was excavated when building the foundation, which also helps to cool the rooms in summer. The walls, either outside or on the inside has no paint on it.
After exploring the tea estate and the lodge, I head for lunch prepared by their talented chef Anoop. “I take care of the harvesting and deciding the menu, so that you have a good healthy meal on your plate” said Anoop. The meal I was served was called Kangra Dham and it symbolises a plate of happiness for people in Himachal. A large plate with five dishes comprising of delicious local vegetables, rice, meat and dessert is generally served during important festive occasions. “A lot of the meals are created based on the fresh organic produce that is brought in either from the kitchen garden or from the estate. Even the wheat for breads and rotis (flat bread) are grown on the estate entirely.” says Upasana Praksah the co-owner of the lodge. The secret that makes the meal so flavourful is the traditional methods of cooking using earthen vessels. Seasonal homemade jams, pickles, sauces and juices pepper their tables throughout meals.
While I am sipping my cup of tea made of mud my host describes the various activities guests can explore while at the homestay. The town of Dharamsala; just an hour away is one of the major attractions being the exile home of Dalai Lama and they arranged guided treks for the mountain lovers. For the ones with a creative streak, a short drive to the oldest pottery studio in India called Andretta is a great way to unwind and take pottery classes for 20 minutes, or for a day. Just a 10 minute scenic walk from the lodge is the beautiful yoga spot called Yogashala with mountains and tea bushes as a backdrop. What a perfect way to enjoy a yoga routine and meditate with nature.
During my visit, it dawned on me that every little thing that the people here were doing was to conserve nature. And it is due to all this hard work that Lodge at Wah is home to a variety of species of plants. The most admirable quality of this lodge is that Deepak and his family spend time with the guests. They ensure that they treat the guests as their own family and friends.
Away from the crowds, The Lodge at Wah is where the mind gets some quiet time to re-energise amidst the fresh mountain air. The idea is to leave the noise behind and connect with nature. The Chaiwala family have mastered the art of simple living, and they are some of the happiest people I have met. “We hope that everyone who stays with us, will never look at a cup of tea the same way again” expressed Upasana as they continue with their efforts to give guests a wholesome experience, far off the beaten path.
