Mumbai’s Irani Cafes: A dying breed with food to die for!
The whiff of freshly baked milk cakes and puff pastries bring back many childhood memories. Going home from school, a quick pit-stop at Mumbai’s most charming Irani cafe, B. Merwan was a must. And the love affair still lives on.
The Irani cafes came to the city along with the Persian immigrants in the 18th and 19th century. The food they served tugged at everyones heart in Mumbai and became a part of the city’s identity. The local people bonded over their simple food and sweet delicacies. But today, these cafes are slowly withering away as people’s palates are changing and glitzy eateries are taking over Mumbai.
While some did bite the dust, these five cafes have managed to stand the test of time.
1) B. Merwan & Co
Located opposite Grant Road station this is a century old cafe. Started in 1914 by Boman Merwan, it has served Mumbai city with lots of love. Well-known for their mawa cakes and biscuits the taste has been consistent over the years. In 2014, the cafe was shut down but it was revived back after a lot of stir created by the fans and is going strong ever since.
2) Kyani & Co
This cafe is in its 115th year of business and an iconic landmark of Mumbai. With high ceilings, wooden chairs and marble flooring it exudes a unique old world charm. One can skim through their menu stuck on the table under a glass sheet. Enjoy their famous Kheema Pav (minced mutton with bread) and Bun Maska (bread with butter) with a hot cup of Irani chai (milk tea with sugar).
3) Britannia & Co.
It’s been 96 years when this cafe was started by Rashid Kohinoor, a Zoroastrian settled in Mumbai after they fled Iran.They started by serving continental food for the British and now the focus lies on Parsi cuisine. For all these years they have managed to capture the heart of the city with their Berry Pulao (rice with raisins), Sali Boti (mutton gravy topped with fried potato sticks) and Dhansak (mixture of lentils with mutton). Today, Rashid’s son, Boman Kohinoor looks after the cafe with the help of his children. “I want the family legacy to continue, that’s all,” he says. “It is not possible for one person to manage Britannia. Let’s see what happens after me,” he signs off.
4) Jimmy Boy Cafe
While most of the Irani cafes are known for their snacks and tea, Jimmy Boy is where you can relish a good wholesome meal. From everyday Parsi meals to festive dishes, this cafe has something for everyone. The must try is ‘Lagan nu Bhonu’ a wedding meal with various dishes.
5) Yazdani Bakery
This bakery is where one can see a cultural contrast. Besides Yazdani sits the famous coffee chain Starbucks. But this has no impact on the fans of this cafe. Though lattes are being served next door, it is filled with regular patrons enjoying their hot cup of Irani chai with snacks. Must try is their melting morsels of ginger biscuits, pudding and khari.
Over the years these cafes are changing their menus to accommodate a wide range of customers. Kyani & Co serve french fries and chicken nuggets to bring in the younger crowd. The future of these cafes may seem uncertain and their closure may mark the end of Mumbai’s culinary journey. But for now Mumbaikers can enjoy the ones that are standing tall against the modern eateries.
Source:
Boman Kohinoor Quote: https://www.thehindu.com/life-and-style/food/cooking-a-culinary-history/article20479933.ece
Poem: http://daak.co.in/nissim-ezekiels-poems-ordinary-human-expression/
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